Aer Lingus News Changes my Travel Plans

I’m having so much fun interviewing for NPR’s Journeys of Discovery with Tom Wilmer! In this conversation, just in time for St. Patrick’s Day, Dave Cooney and Helen Maguire tell me about about Aer Lingus’ new daily nonstop service from San...

Irish Brown Bread — My Grandmother’s Recipe

I learned to bake brown soda bread from my Grandma Hayes. She stood nearly five feet tall, always straight and proud, had red hair and freckles that she hated, and strong, cool arms that I loved. I didn’t realize it at the time, but Grandma also taught me about...

In Search of Sheela-Na-Gig

Our relationship began with my quick peek at a wildly pornographic image in Thomas Cahill’s popular book, How the Irish Saved Civilization. An ancient goddess, Sheela is rendered symbolically, stripped of all but the essential features. She is naked, bald, and breastless, and reaches both arms behind her bent legs, using her hands to …

Another Trinity: Exploring the Dark Side of Irish Cuisine

It was perfectly seasoned, salty enough to compel another bite, and with just a tease of pepper, that came onto the tip of my tongue well after I had swallowed the rest. What ultimately seduced me was the generous texture—the gentle pop, a creamy chew, and only then the peppery suggestion. This could easily become my favorite food, except for the fact of what it is: Blood.